The fourth Aachen roll-up started on Saturday. The official pictures are there here .

We took this opportunity and are with ours Silver Fern been there. So that we could properly test our project. With arrival and departure and the tour, it was almost 200km that were covered without any problems. A stable touring engine with a lot of torque and power.

From the weather, everything was really there. Got into some heavy showers on the way there. Then at the meeting point in Aachen it shook heavily again and even hailed lightly. The first half of the route was driving through pouring rain.

After the break, Peter had mercy on us and we were rewarded with sunshine. So the final grilling could be enjoyed properly.

Conclusion: A great event and we all hope for the Classic Day on May 5.5th. to see in Glessen.

Installation of Vespatronic ignition

The Installation of the Vespatronic requires real interpretation work on the subject of electrics.

To make matters worse, the fact that the currently enclosed connection diagram is not correct.

Here you will find the Vespatronig and a large selection of Vespa ignitions

If you were to believe the circuit diagram, you would simply have to put the mass and excitation voltage together and then redistribute them to connections 1 and 2 of the CDI.

From the ignition base plate, it is of course correct to connect red / black to -1- (the wider slot), again connected to green of the wiring harness and blue to -2- (the narrower slot), connected to black of the wiring harness.

There is a great risk of confusion in the cable box, where different colors have to be brought together. We have provided all cables on which there is voltage when the plug-in connections are loosened and the engine is running. The ground connection does not pose a potential danger and can be equipped with a plug.

So that one does not confuse the two cable connections excitation voltage and on-board network, which are each equipped with a plug-in sleeve, one can memorize “blue sea under yellow sun” - well - in practice it works ...

We place the ignition base plate on the later of the two markings as a test.

As soon as we have put all the glory in the cable box and the pole wheel is reassembled, we start the engine to check the ignition timing.

We have already determined and drawn the markings for the OT and from OT 25 ° beforehand by means of a reversal measurement.

Flashed off briefly.

The ignition is at 25 ° at 2000 rpm-1, a good starting point for a run on the test bench.

The goal was to have a 25hp engine, but look at the diagram for yourself.

Without an air filter, the 148 main jet was still OK, with the filter we had to install a 145 and move the NAPE needle by a clip to the 2nd position from the top.

19PS at 6000rpm-1 and 25Nm speak a clear language. Even at 8600rpm-1 there are still over 20Nm and 25HP on the rear wheel. With this power range there should be no gear connection problem. Unfortunately nice…

To get an impression of how fast the whole load could be in the end, we do another run, HP versus km / h.

At 140Km / h there are still 24PS available ...

What do you all mean? Mission accomplished?

Now we just have to attach the rest of the parts and then it's off to the road for a practical test ...

The goal is slowly in sight.

Attach the shift cables ...

With the clamping nipples, you should use the variant with pressure plates. The brass plate does not damage the cable and can be used again. For the sake of simplicity, we equip the Silver Fern with a complete set of clamping nipples and adjusting screws.

The neutral position can easily be seen from below on the handlebars when the cables are installed, the markings should be on top of each other so that the neutral position is correct later on the handlebar cover.

Switches? All right - now the brakes.

Bleeding or filling a hydraulic brake system is decisive for the subsequent braking performance. Due to the small piston diameter on the hand pump, air in the brake line would make itself felt as an uncomfortably large lever.

Unless the brake fluid is suitable for consumption, it also has the ability to attack paint and collect water. Therefore, you should change the fluid at least every 2 years and clean the wetted areas immediately with brake cleaner.

We also provide the steel flex line with the corresponding banjos.

As soon as the brake line has been laid, the expansion tank of the pump can be filled and the brake can be vented.

As soon as the system is free of air, you can still fix the brake lever with a tension belt. As a result, the brake pistons in the caliper in your seals slide into the correct position and you get a more precise pressure point.

The connection to the asphalt is made with the new Continental Twist, so that braking and engine power arrive correctly on the road. Watch out! The twist has a running direction-oriented profile.

An all-weather rubber compound and the above-average tread depth make the Conti a good companion on the road.

In the chassis department, BGM-Pro shock absorbers ensure that everything runs on track.

With numerous setting options, the dampers cover all areas. From a sporty solo operation to a 2-man tour with luggage.

Brake, gearshift - everything on it.

Now it is getting exciting - we are preparing for the test bench.

From the nozzle sets, we quickly screw a jet nozzle with auxiliary nozzle 48 and main nozzle 148 into the Keihin.

Then it's on to the role.

Tomorrow we will neatly stow the cables of the Vespatronic and the overflow hoses of the Keihin.

And then, yes, then even we are curious what the engine can do ...

Until then…


The Silver Fern needs a new brake system.

We use a complete LML disc brake for this. A T5 fender is to be mounted on the new steering tube. Since the T5 mud flap is a bit smaller, it is necessary to move the side holder.

The existing holder is therefore removed and the point at which it is to be welded on is prepared.

We bring the holder with the fender into the correct position.

After the holder is firmly connected to the steering tube again, we prepare the hole for the steel braided brake line.

The bore is widened to 9mm so that the connections of the brake line fit through.

We are still dipping the steering tube in fashionable matt black, we hope the new color scheme does not unbalance the sophisticated color concept of the Silver Fern too much.

While the paint dries, let's turn to the steering head bearings.

Special tools are required to remove the old shells.

With the plate ...

you get into the gap between the lower bearing shell and the seat.

The tool for the upper bearing shell ensures that the shell does not tilt in the head tube and widen the sensitive seat when it is removed.

When the old shells are removed, the new ones can be fitted with an insertion tool.

The steering tube is still drying. Therefore we only now turn to the handlebars.

The handlebars must be prepared accordingly for the brake pump holder.

We are taking this step-by-step.

Cut in first ...

... and then mill out to match.

We will replace the supplied Nissin brake pump with one of the current Vespa S / LX models.

The reason for this is the smaller piston diameter, the Nissen pump comes in the classic
1/2 inch format therefore, with a piston diameter of 12,7mm, while the pump of the Vespa S is equipped with an 11mm piston.

The smaller piston diameter enables higher braking power with less manual force.

The greater lever path due to the smaller hydraulic reduction leads to better controllability.

The adapter and the pump need to be adjusted slightly.

Fully assembled, it gives a very pleasing picture.

After the finished processing, the handlebar is also adapted to the new color concept and soon "shines" in matt black.

The steering tube is now dry. After the fender is mounted, the lower one
Open bearing shell and dust cover.

The steering tube is then inserted with plenty of grease for the bearings.

This one…

we replace with a set of new trains in Piaggio quality.

For the throttle cable, we use a universal throttle cable, the original Piaggio cable is unfortunately too short for the 28 Keihin.

After all the cables have been threaded in and the switch cables have been laid, the handlebars take their place on the new steering tube. We still have to come up with something on the subject of gas pipes. In order to open the 28er completely, the original gas reel would even be sufficient, but you would have to grasp at least once with the “tap open” movement.

This results in 2 solutions.

On the one hand, quick throttle grips are preferred, they give a sporty touch.

However, if you prefer a restrained look, you might be better off with a very inexpensive solution.

For some it is old hat, the pulley with stop.
There is no need to mount a suitable gas tube for quick throttle and the handlebars remain symmetrical.

Due to the conversion to a fully hydraulic brake system, there is no longer a brake cable running through the gas pipe, so we can freely choose the stop of the roller by positioning the screw.
However, if a brake cable continues to run through the gas pipe, then you are usually forced to drill new holes for the split pin attached to the pulley.

As already mentioned, the inflow of the 28 Keihins poses a potential problem area.

As a result, the inlet is slightly above the lowest position in the Tank there is a risk that the gasoline flow will be obstructed by an air bubble.

To avoid this problem as much as possible, we are installing one Fuel pump.

The petrol pumps that are usually used are operated via a vacuum membrane, so it is best to position the pump at the lowest point in the system.

The Silent rubber serves as a suspension and should, if possible, prevent the gasoline from foaming due to excessive vibrations.

We use a very tried and tested fuel hose Toyox hose. A metal spiral inside, high wall thickness and a very small possible bending radius characterize this hose and make it relatively insusceptible to mechanical influences.

Provided with the hose salad that is necessary for the time being, it then looks like this.

For explanation:

The upper, middle connection of the pump leads to the vacuum connection in the membrane box.

The connection on the right of the pump leads to the tank.

From the left connection it goes a little on one Y-connector from there the right connection leads to the carburettor. The upper connection forms the return to the tank. The outlet for the return is positioned a little higher so that any air bubbles that may appear can make their way back up into the tank.

With a bypass system there is the possibility that the air is always pumped in a circle and the pump output is greatly reduced.

Diaphragm pumps and Keihin carburetors have something in common, a strong dislike for dirt.

The well-intentioned sieve on petcock in the tank keeps larger chunks out, but that is nowhere near enough. Smaller dirt particles tend to be deposited in the chambers of the pump until a heart attack occurs and the pump finally quits the service.

The fine Mr. Keihin reacts much more sensitively and immediately to dirt, constant overflow and booby behavior in the idle area are just two of the possible expressions of displeasure.

That is why we put a filter in front of the entire gasoline household.

The crystal clear OMG filter have also proven themselves in our racing team, here in the picture below.

We use a for the return to the tank Brake banjo.

To do this, of course, a hole has to be drilled in the tank.

Please, please, drilling holes in a tank requires extreme caution.

So that the tank and humans do not end up as a ballistic experiment in low-earth orbit, the tank should be rinsed beforehand and, to be on the safe side, with water or CO2 to fill.

With threadlocking let's use the banjo.

A sure instinct is required when tightening the screws.

Return finished.

As with the braking system, the banjo comes with Aluminum seals attached.

With the front brake and a T5 fender, it continues tomorrow.

The next step is to install the clutch.

In spacer has a chamfer around the hole on one side. The side with the chamfer belongs in the direction of the crankshaft, as the crankshaft stub usually has a small radius at this point in order to counteract the notch effect.

The crescent wedge or Woodruff key should be pressed as far as possible into the groove of the crankshaft so that it does not stand up when the clutch is pushed on and damage the clutch hub.

Before the clutch is installed, we still use the free access to the gearbox and fill in the gearbox oil.

As soon as the transmission oil is stowed in the engine, the clutch is mounted.

Fortunately, there are now other solutions than the well-known castle nut, which has certainly already driven one or the other Vespa screwdriver cursing insane.

We have these nuts made in Germany. Unfortunately, elsewhere there are some Indian “qualities” on the market that cannot cope with the required tightening torque of 50Nm and stretch their arms.

Nut tight, now comes the thrust washer.

The retaining lug of the spring is guided through the larger of the two holes during assembly.

The pressure mushroom gets a touch of fat ...

and then it goes to the membrane box.

As tested, the float chamber of the Keihin is located below the lowest point in the tank. Unfortunately not the influx.

In order to avoid that a small air bubble at this elevated point will stop the fuel flow later during operation, we have to equip the Silver Fern with a fuel pump.

We put the vacuum connection in the membrane housing.


Insert the thread and ...

and use the countersink to create a small sealing surface for the cone of the vacuum connection.

The connection is screwed in with a little screw lock.

Then the suction device is installed with the membrane and seals.

As a test, we attach the carburetor in order to make any necessary changes with the engine still removed.

We shape the cooling hood a little with the heat gun so that the carburetor is straight.

In the case of resonance systems, the manifold is often suspended with springs. For this purpose, a perforated plate is attached under the front screw of the fan wheel cover. If you just want to remove the fan wheel cover for checking or adjusting the ignition, you will usually be forced to unhook the spring every time. This sheet metal also works pretty well on the screw, since the surface is the soft plastic of the cooling hood and at some point the thread in the motor housing gives up.

Therefore we now fasten the retaining plate for the spring from the inside with a screw.

This, firmly glued in, then serves as a stud bolt on the fan wheel side.

Installation of the rear brake system.

The recess on the brake cam is provided with a reserve of grease and installed.

Brake arm, spring and finally the split pin.

After the dust cover has been installed, it is the turn of the brake pads.

First insert at the bottom, then on top of the bolt ...

Then lift the top covering onto the cam with a screwdriver.

and then you can snap the covering into its actual position with a light bouncing blow. -Attention! Hands off!

Fuses are still on the bolts and you're done.

Here are the remaining parts that will be distributed on the engine.

The ignition system ..

is fastened with M5 screws and corrugated washers.

The retaining plate of the CDI is still mounted and because electric starters are only for .. well .., we don't need an electric start, so we close the hole with a cover plate.

Just quickly threw the fan wheel on it and then the wedding can begin.

Have a nice, sunny weekend!

Until Monday!


We clean the motor housing thoroughly before assembly brake cleaner and compressed air, because after all we have produced quite a bit of aluminum chips.

To install the bearings, we heat the motor housing with a hot air blower to approx. 90 °.

The ball bearings are with Cooler spray treated. Almost all of the bearings have been shrunk in this way.

The only exception is the B188 for the main shaft in the small, alternator half. We use that for the installation matching tool.

As soon as the bearing is on the coupling side, we use a feeler gauge to check the clearance to the circlip.

We also match the axial play Shims .

The whole action is intended to prevent the ball bearing from being able to move axially in the seat when the engine is warm and so sooner or later wear the bearing seat.

In the end, we come to 3 / 10mm with our motor housing, which has to be compensated.

We do the same with the 6204, the rear wheel bearing.

It continues with the shaft seals.

We use one to match the Lusso main shaft internal shaft seal.

One with on the crankshaft Metal shaft seal.

It is important to check after installation whether the shaft seal is in contact with the bearing.

If that were the case, the shaft seal would be destroyed within a short time by the frictional heat generated.

For the next step you should be a calm character.

The auxiliary shaft is inserted with the axis into the motor housing so that the bearing surface still protrudes.

With a little fat they will be 21 loose needles glued to the auxiliary shaft axis.

As soon as all the needles have been sorted, the axis can be pushed into the housing as far as it will go.

The auxiliary shaft axis has a recess for the nose on the locking plate.

Together with the washer, the axle is then tightened to 35Nm and secured.

To install the main shaft, we grease the chamfer for the shaft sealing ring so that the sealing lip does not turn over when it is pulled in.

brake drum let's pull the main shaft into the bearing.

The crankshaft still needs the bearing ring pitched .

The orientation of the bearing ring on the shaft is ensured with a spacer gauge.

On the one hand, so that at some point later we can replace the bearing ring with the puller and, on the other hand, so that the bearing ring sits far enough in the bearing.

Where we have the great piece in hand, we can make further preparations.

The Silver Fern is supposed to be used by a Vespatronic be ignited.

To be on the safe side, we grind the pole wheel of the Vespatronic Valve grinding paste so that any angle errors in the cone do not cause damage.

As soon as a uniform contact pattern emerges on the surfaces in the pole wheel and the crankshaft,

the cone should “glue” when put together.

Sometimes it is totally annoying to use the crescent wedge in the installed state with new crankshafts, because it does not seem to fit. This is often due to a burr on the keyway that spoils the installation.

Therefore we deburr the keyway on the Lima side.

Before inserting the crankshaft, the chamfer for the shaft sealing ring is also provided with grease here, as on the main shaft.

We put the half of the housing, now complete with the crankshaft, into one Motor mount.

This is much easier to screw afterwards.

The second half of the housing is provided with an O-ring for the kick starter shaft, the same and the associated spring.

Uh! don't forget - that Kickerl! The pinion should be placed on the auxiliary shaft with a little gear oil.

We glue the pressure spring for the pinion with grease in the small half of the housing.

All open ball bearings also get a little lubrication so that there is no insufficient lubrication during the first few revolutions until the oil has spread.

In Housing seal is fixed with grease so that it does not slip when the halves are pressed together.

When pressing the housing halves together, it is necessary to use the Kickstarter to be pressed briefly so that the pinion can jump behind the kick starter segment.

As soon as the housing halves are in contact with tension, we put the Housing bolt .

The bolts are tightened step by step up to 12Nm.

Cut off the overhang of the seal.

and then you can continue with the assembly of the piston and cylinder.

The cylinder and the outlet port of the Newline are quite “close” friends, so it is advisable to try the port on beforehand.

In the assembled state it would be a bit of a nightmare to machine the nozzle ...

Upper and lower connecting rod bearings get something Motul with me for the first few meters.

Just like the piston pin, rings and the cylinder liner.

We grease the O-ring in the cylinder head into the groove so that it does not slip and get damaged during assembly.

Tightened crosswise step by step down to 20Nm, everything should also be tight here.

With bearing dummies, we insert the crankshaft into the engine housing to measure the control angle.

We will soon have the storage dummies available for you in the shop.

The two housing halves are fixed with the 4 nuts in the stator housing and the cylinder is for measuring the control angle assembled.

The Newline likes rather low steering angles. At the outlet below 190 ° with a discharge of 28 °.

With a 1,5mm thick Spacer for the cylinder base and a Malossi base gasket, we come up with it
129 ° overcurrent and 185 ° exhaust.

If the squeeze size is still within limits, then we have a very good basis on which we don't really have to change anything.

In order to take the squeeze dimension, i.e. the distance between the piston and cylinder head at TDC, we attach a piece of solder to the piston crown with adhesive tape. The crush dimension should always be determined parallel to the piston pin, otherwise the piston will tilt due to the running clearance in the cylinder and thus falsify the dimension.

For the cylinder head, our choice is that of S&S machined Piaggio cylinder head with an adapted combustion chamber for our purposes.

The Malossi is in one too Version with cylinder head available. However, the cylinder head supplied is intended for a 57mm stroke and is therefore unsuitable for our purposes, as the compression ratio increases with the increase in displacement. This and the rather high proportion of squishy areas in the Malossi cylinder head lead to a higher thermal load.

Mmmh… 1,1mm are a bit tight.

In order to get a higher squeeze dimension, we add an additional cylinder base gasket and thus come to 1,3mm at control angles of 130 ° to 186 °.

Next, the overcurrent channels are adapted to the motor housing together with the 1,5mm spacer.
First it is scrubbed again

and then smoothed.

With the Malossi and Polini 210 it is not only necessary to adapt the motor housing, but also the cylinder in the area of ​​the overflow ducts.

Since the Malossi piston allows the mixture to reach the overflow channels very easily thanks to its open design (Malossi CVF), it is not necessary to mill huge pockets in the lower area of ​​the overflow channels.

The cylinder will be completely milled and tomorrow it will be the innards, i.e. the gearbox, primary drive and the clutch.

Today we are preparing the Malossi 210 for installation.

So that the full depth of the original overcurrent ducts in the motor housing can be used, the windows in the cylinder base are expanded.

Remove the depth of the channels and transfer it to the cylinder base.

The window is first roughly cut out with a cutting disc.

It is important not to go to the final size, there should not be any sharp edges and corners. In the cylinder base in particular, it is important that the windows have a radius, otherwise cracks can quickly form out of the corners.

The coating in the corners of the raceway is now removed so that the coating in the raceway is not damaged in the next step.

For those of you who are tenderly strung please do not look at the next picture.

Here the cutout is removed with a slight * tick * of the hammer.

The resulting window is then made pretty.

The whole thing all around.

Tomorrow we will tackle the ducts as such together with the motor housing.

That leaves the piston.

All black marked areas are removed and then smoothed.

now about 20gr. the piston looks lighter like this.

The new heart of the Silver Fern comes from a PX200 motor housing on which we put an MMW Evo2 membrane box.

The lower part is mounted first for marking.

The inlet is roughly milled using these markings.

After we have removed what feels like 2kg of aluminum from the inlet area, the rough shape looks like this.

Then the transitions to the membrane housing are adjusted and finally the surfaces are made stylish, because the eye also moves with the internal motor ...

Unfortunately there is a small area at the bottom right of the picture with a few cavities, i.e. gas inclusions and impurities in the casting. Visually not exactly a flaw, but technically completely safe.

The discreet inlet can no longer be sealed with a conventional seal, so cut something suitable out of sealing paper.

Straight edges can be easily cut with a cutter and steel ruler.

The easiest way to punch out the holes for the fastening screws is with a handle punch when you are at hand.

It continues on Monday ...

The “Silver Fern” comes from the close circle of friends of the SCK and will be used again this year after a long break for everyday life and trips to Vespa meetings.

We would like to introduce you to the associated engine concept here.

We are aiming for a performance of around 25HP with a lot of pressure in all positions.
With enough torque, the transmission can be translated for a long time in order to achieve a good cruising speed at relatively low speeds.

First of all, roughly the ingredients for the engine.

That comes as a cylinder Malossi 210 for use. Since we are aiming for torque and therefore want to install a crankshaft with a 60mm stroke, it falls Polini 210 still out. The new Version for 60mm stroke is not yet available at Polini.

For the crankshaft, we fall back on the tried and tested, the so-called Bell waves have established themselves in performance-oriented motors with diaphragm control.

There is also a lot of choice when it comes to the intake manifold, we decide on one Evo2 from MMW in the one BGM membrane with GRP panels tinkering.
Before that we then a 28 PWK from Keihin strapped.

A DRT “Spitfire” countershaft can be used to distribute the horses to the 4 speed levels.
With that and a short one 4th gear of the T5, useful gear steps can be realized. Overall, the translation would be quite short when using an original PX200 primary. That's why we're implanting one in the new heart of the Silver Fern Malossi primary with a translation of 24 / 63z.

The Scooter and Service Newline ensures the right vibrations in the exhaust department.

For you, we record every work step in as much detail as possible.

Tomorrow we will start adjusting the motor and diaphragm housing.