Once in yours Smallframe the original SHB has to give way to another carburettor, the question arises shortly before the engine is started for the first time: how do I operate the choke?
How do I convert the carburetor from a folding choke to a cable choke?
How do I connect the cable choke of a Dellorto PHBH, VHST, Mikuni, Keihin PWK or Polini CP carburetor to the choke lever of the Smallframe at?
Many carburetors are usually delivered with a so-called folding or pull choke. So that the carburetor can be operated with a cable pull, as is typical for Vespa, we offer the right adapter set for conversion for many carburetor types.
2599091 Dellorto PHBL, PHBH VHST (Shop)
2599098 Mikuni, Keihin, and Polini CP (Shop)
The bgm Pro choke lever is suitable for all carburetor types that are equipped or retrofitted with a cable choke.
Due to the special design of the bgm Pro choke lever, the choke cable can be easily detached in order to remove the carburetor. This saves time and protects your hands in the cramped carburetor room Smallframe. By using a clamping nipple, the choke cable is not kinked every time the choke lever is actuated and is therefore permanently durable and secure against tearing off. Due to the adapted contour of the lever, it can no longer jump out of the choke button guide.
The assembly of the bgm Pro choke lever is easy.
The universal cable BGM6445 is used as the choke cable. This already has the right length for the outer shell in a Vespa Smallframe to find space.
Loosen the nut of the small inner choke lever with SW10 and make sure that the screw does not fall out towards the carburettor chamber. When removing the original choke lever, pay attention to the domed washer (3330468W) which lies between the choke lever and the bracket on the frame. This will also be needed again later.
Guide the screw through the retaining plate from below and then attach the spring washer and the choke lever.
The nut has a so-called clamping part to secure against self-loosening. This clamping part can be recognized by the imprints on the wrench flats of the nut. Depending on the design of the nut, this clamping part is on a front side or on the wrench flats.
When putting on the nut, make sure that the clamping part of the nut faces upwards so that the non-clamping part is screwed onto the choke bolt first.
First tighten the nut until the choke lever can still be moved easily.
The inner cable is first fed through the adjusting screw and the adapter, barrel first, and then pushed through the spring. The barrel of the train is hung in the choke piston.
When inserting the choke piston into the carburetor, make sure that the barrel does not jump out of the choke piston mount. The adapter is then screwed to the carburetor.
The clamp nipple is now placed on the loose end of the choke cable and fastened at a distance of 20mm from the shoulder of the end cap.
First thread the inner cable into the slotted guide of the choke lever and then hook the clamping nipple into the choke lever. Use the end cap to pull the outer shell back far enough (the choke in the carburetor is actuated in the process) so that the end cap can be hung in the retaining plate.
If the play in the choke cable is too large, this can be easily adjusted using the adjusting screw on the adapter on the carburettor. A safety clearance of approx. 1.5mm between the shoulder of the end cap and the abutment of the retaining plate on the frame should be maintained so that the cable is not tensioned during compression and the movements of the engine while driving and the choke is not activated.
If the necessary safety play of the cable cannot be achieved via the adapter, the adapter on the carburetor is turned back and the cable adjusted by tightening the clamping nipple.
Finally tighten the nut of the choke lever so that the lever can still be operated easily but the spring force of the spring for the choke piston cannot pull it back again.